I've also noticed the hand controller has "RAMP UP" and "RAMP DOWN", is this to set them manually? The computer software also doesn't have much in the way of help either.Īre the ramp rates set based on what shotout mode you are in (e.g 4cyl, 4F, 6F etc)?. It's not the most user-friendly setup, and i've gotten the hang of it now, but it was quite baffling (given they give you no instruction manual and i had misplaced the instructional dvd). I'd be interested in joining this discussion once i figure out what's actually going on. I'm still trying to get my head around how to use the damn thing. Was playing around with a brand new dyno dynamics unit which a friend just installed the other day at his workshop. Tell me your opinions on the mode and what experiences you have had or what you know If you do have traction problems you should check Tyre Pressures,Tyre Treads etc The dyno dynamics dynos also have state of the art Rollers which help grab the tyre as its spinning and most dynos also run a traction CONTROL bar which you find the Straps located on.What happens here is as the car rolls onto the front roller (which its supposed to do) it pulls the car down on the roller reducing it from spinning.I have had mark hayes on the dyno and managed to get 1172 RWHP or so out of his car on the rollers which traction problems. Make sure your dyno tuner has a WEATHER STATION in the dyno room if you want a correct HP run and watch the inlet air temps etc.ĭuring the run the car should be in a gear closest to 1.1 ratio.If you hit the speed cut which normally you wont on a skyline you can drop down a gear to 3rd.The load and hp figures are the same and dont vary much maybe on 5 -10hp. What gear your doing the run in and tyre pressures.The usually NAME,CAR,PLATE is on there as well and this is done during the setup of the run. 900-1.00 any more and it will read more hp then you actually got.The ways to cheat on shootout is running the inlet temp hottier (Near or on the exhaust)which then you will see a correction rate of around 1.1 1.2 which reads alot more then your making. The mode also has inputs such as DAY TEMP,HUMIDITY,BARAMETRIC PRESSURE,AIR TEMP.When you enter the DAY TEMP,HUMIDITY & BARAMETRIC PRESSURE it shows these on the CORRECTIONS TABLE on the Printout.This is used when comparing dyno to dyno to find out why your car made less or more hp.The AIR TEMP is Measured from a Sensor which should be located near the POD FILTER.A good inlet temp should be no more then 40 Degrees.If hottier try to get more cold air there(COLD AIR DUCTING,POD ENCLOSURE ETC).These temperatures go into a Calculator which also sets a correction rate to work out HP on the dyno.A normal correction rate is seen by a dyno operator and should be around. Im unsure what each ramp rate is set at but have found if tuning on a low set mode will have the car out of tune and reading more HP then its actually got due to the ramp being lighter spining easier.If you use a Higher set mode such as shoot 8f the car will have too much load on it and read less hp. SHOOT 8F (TURBO,NOS,SUPERCHARGED 8 Cylinder) SHOOT 6F (TURBO,NOS,SUPERCHARGED 6 Cylinder) SHOOT 4F (TURBO,NOS,SUPERCHARGED 4 Cylinder) Shootout mode was designed by dyno dynamics around 3 years ago.It was designed to remove all VARIABLES and help dyno tuners in setting up vehicles.By variables i mean RAMP RATES.Now when tuning a car you must use a correct ramp rate on it.If the wrong rate is used the car will be out of tune.ĭyno dynamics have got a couple modes setup when using shootout I just wanna explain how shootout mode works from my KNOWLEDGE I just wanna start with A DYNO IS A TUNING TOOL and should be respected as that.If you want to test your car to see what power its putting down Hit the Track and get a MPH
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